We got up at 5am to meet Liam at the Cascade Falls parking lot for 7. It was -19 when we got there... By the time we had finished faffing at the cars, the sky was beginning to brighten and headlamps were not necessary for the rest of the day.
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Gearing up in the dark |
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Feeling a bit dazed after getting up so early. It was REALLY cold! |
After crossing the airstrip, we immediately came to a junction in the trail (right at the avalanche sign). We decided to go right towards cascade falls and then follow a much less used track that headed in the approximate direction of Rogan's Gully. This turned out to be a mistake. After a long trudge up the hill (very steep), we broke the treeline way above the gully. We could see footprints down below in the gully but had no good way to get there. We found out that we had walked up the descent trail that you can take if you don't want to rap back down the climb. Instead of backtracking and hiking up again, we just set up an anchor off a tree and did a 2-rope rappel into the gully.
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Rappelling down into the gully |
Liam took the first lead, which was a few short ice pitches separated by snowy ramps that were easy to walk up. There was lots of rock and not too much ice which made it a bit exciting! We found out later that this was not actually the first pitch of the 7 pitch route. We had rappelled into the middle of the climb and actually started on the 5th pitch. There was a belay station at the top of this pitch.
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Kyle seconding the "first" pitch |
I was up next to lead, but all I did was walk up a snow ramp to the bottom of what I recognized to be the final pitch from other trip reports. Kyle got to lead this one.
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Belay station at the "third" (last) pitch with Kyle leading above |
We were a bit disappointed about having missed a bunch of the climb. We had lunch and took some photos before rappelling down.
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Topping out at the top of the last pitch |
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