(Most of) Mt. Joffre in a Day

Mt. Joffre, Alberta

36km (round trip)

3450m elevation

1300m gain

Not to be confused with Mt. Joffre BC on the Duffy Lake Road, Mt. Joffre is the tallest peak in Kananaskis and the southernmost 11,000'er in Alberta.

The glacier that never ends on the approach to the North Face of Mt. Joffre

Once again our world closed in with new restrictions as the third wave of the COVID-19 pandemic exploded across Canada. It was almost comical as every time we had a trip planned, restrictions tighten. This time, we were locked in Alberta and couldn't cross into BC for our usual spring biking or climbing trip. As our spring vacation plans disintegrated we scrambled to find something fun to do close to home while dealing with classic Alberta shoulder season conditions. With ski resorts closed, bike trails too wet and an erratic pattern of hot days followed by snow and wind, Kyle whimsically mentioned that now might be a good time to try Joffre in a day. I don't think he actually meant it, but after turning back so close to the summit in the spring of 2014 and sleeping in an poorly constructed igloo at Aster Lake (one of my first and last times winter camping), it was a mountain we had reflected on often as something we could probably do in a more comfortable fast and light day.

A midweek weather window promised clear skies, moderate temperatures and calm winds. We packed up the trailer and drove out to Kananaskis where we spent the night at Mt. Kidd RV park for $50/night despite the fact that many sites were still full of snow and the toilets weren't even open for the season! We laid down and pretended to sleep for a few hours before we drove out to the trailhead for a moonlit alpine start, leaving the truck at the Interlakes parking lot at 1:15am.

Crossing Upper Kananaskis Lake under the light of a Super Moon

The ski across the lake was perfect. The slush from the day before had frozen and we were able to zip along under the moonlight that was bright enough to light our way. We didn't have to turn on our headlamps until we reached the trees on the opposite shore. After a short bushwhack we got onto the hiking trail and followed the GPS to take a direct trail up to Hidden Lake. We made our first navigational error here and tried to cross the big side hill on the sidehill along Mt. Lyautey instead of following the drainage. Instead of skinning up through the trees beside the creek we ended up bootpacking up a steep slope and carrying our skis through shrubs and rocks. In the dark, that route had looked much easier than it actually was and we lost some time messing around. 

Once we started using the GPS again, we were back on track and gained elevation quickly up the winter approach to Aster Lake to the lookers right of Fossil Falls. We stopped to melt some snow to refill our water bottles and eat some breakfast as the sun rose over Upper Kananaskis Lake. 

Alpine glow from the beside Fossil Falls

Sunrise is on its way as we make it into the alpine

Still a long way to go to reach Mt. Joffre, but feels good to be in the alpine

We were feeling pretty good and although we weren't setting any speed records we making good time with easy travel conditions. We made it to Aster Lake in 5 hrs and continued plodding along towards Joffre, which we finally got a glimpse of as we rounded the corner of Mt. Marlborough.

Our first view of the peak, approaching the glacier above Aster Lake

Once again, we chose a suboptimal route and tried to climb up to the Mangin Glacier too early through the moraines when we should have just continued up the valley for as long as we could before turning up. As a result we encountered our second side hill of doom for the day. My ankles did not appreciate that.

Out of the shadows and into the sunlight

Finally moving into the sun was a welcome change from the morning chill, but as we ascended the wind picked up blasting us with gusts of ice crystals that were most unpleasant.

The side-hill of doom

Photos don't quite capture just how windy it was

There was nowhere to hide from the wind and the only option was to keep moving. By the time we reached the toe of the glacier I was seriously questioning our decision to do this mountain in a day. I was cold and hungry but it was easier to just pull the hood tight and tuck my head down into the wind than grab a bar from my pack. Thank god for pocket real fruit gummies that kept me going all the way up the never-ending glacier.

Smiling on the outside, crying on the inside

By this point, we had been traveling for 9 hours and covered 20km. The top was only 300m above us but we had a steep face to ascend and our pace had slowed significantly. 

One step at a time

We switch-backed until it got too steep to skin then switched over to boot packing. A fresh layer of snow had fallen a few days before and we were breaking trail, knowing that only a week ago there had been large sections of the face that had melted down to blue ice. Soon enough we found the ice and probed around to find a way up but it was either waist-deep post-holing or grade 1 ice climbing with the wrong equipment. 

Getting steeper

Post-holing and probing for crevasses

Bootpacking is fun

After struggling to pick our way up the face for almost 2 hours we decided to turn around. We were less than 100m from the top. Skunked again by Mt. Joffre

A long way from home

The turn-around point

It wasn't a hard decision to turn around. We had lots of time left in the day but were having too much difficulty finding a safe way up the final slope. Regardless, it is always bittersweet to have come so far and not be able to stand on the summit. I must admit though, it felt pretty awesome to be finally heading down after so many hours climbing!

So close, but so far (and steeper than it looks!)

The ski down the face was fantastic with all the fresh snow from the recent storm, but my legs were nearing jello consistency and I had a pretty spectacular face plant while Kyle laughed at me. The wind had finally died down enough for us to enjoy a good snack and hydration break before we skied back down the glacier towards Aster Lake. Kyle announced that he was never coming back to try Mt. Joffre again but I somehow don't believe that.

Heading home

You thwarted us again Mt. Joffre, but I will be back!

Downhill feels great

As we lost elevation, we were treated with warmer temperatures but terrible skiing as the snow had turned to snot. Survival ski mode was engaged and technique went out the window as we focused on keeping our ACL's intact.

Mmm.. crusty 

We stopped for a long lunch where we brewed some coffee, ate raman noodles and lounged in the sun out of the wind below Aster. It was just what we needed for the upcoming bushwhack back down to Upper Kananaskis Lake and we were able to relax and enjoy being out in the mountains together.

Astor Lake

The final slope down to Hidden Lake was horrible with lots of bushwhacking and side stepping through tiny toothpick trees. By the time we reached the lake, my feet felt like they were going to fall off so we stopped so I could rip my boots off my feet then cry/laugh and hyperventilate as the sensation returned. It took a monumental effort to shove my feet back in my boots but really, there wasn't any other option.

Toes couldn't quite make it all the way in one go

Drawing from the bottom of the tank, we skate-skied the last 4 km across the slushy lake and celebrated with a beer and lots of water back at the truck, followed by burgers and a nice long sleep. 

It was a great adventure, despite not quite making it to the summit and a solid effort all around! 

See you next time Joffre.

Last lake to cross