The "Tit" Scramble

Distance: 11 km

Elevation: 1200 m

Time: 6.5 hrs

The majestic "tit" as seen from the approach ridge

From Canmore, the Tit is an obvious landmark so we were expecting it to be a pretty popular route. However, on a quick google search, there really wasn't much route info out there! We parked at the east end of Bow River Drive (marked by a yellow star on my map) in the Hamlet of Harvey Heights. If I was to do this again, I might consider parking along Cascade Drive, the upper street in the neighbourhood which would provide easier access to some of the trails. There is no official trailhead for the scramble which actually starts off of the Montane Traverse Trail. You have many options to navigate through the maze of trails above Harvey Heights, or just bushwack straight up through the forest to gain the mountain bike trail. If you follow the Ridge Traverse trail to a double track on the west side of a big drainage, you can easily access the Montane Traverse but it does take you quite far out of the way. Once on the Montane Traverse, follow it back toward Canmore until it starts to climb. You will come to a less traveled trail that forks up and left and was marked by a small piece of old duct tape on a tree branch. This is the start of the scramble.

Map of trails above Harvey Heights - note our parking spot in yellow and approximate trails we took in red (not to scale)

Riverbed drainage we followed during our bushwhack

 Once we were on the scrambling trail, it was well established and easy to follow. You gain elevation quickly through the forest before reaching a short slab. This is the start of the scrambling. Above the slab we climbed steep scree and choss up braided trails, trending left towards the ridge.

Kyle and Heather on the loosely defined trail

On the ridge, we got into more solid rock. We followed the interesting, narrow ridge which had a big drop down off the left side. It was cold and windy, but despite the threatening rain clouds over Mt. Rundle, we didn't get rain or snow.

Up the ridge towards the summit nipple

Me on the ridge

Heather following the ridgeline with stormy Mt. Rundle and Ha Ling in the background

Kyle and the weather

Sunbeams and view of Canmore

Eventually, the rock got steeper and we scrambled upwards towards the nipple. We were able to follow a faint trail that switch-backed out to the right to avoid some steeper slab. At the base of the nipple, we contoured left to the more accessible slab ramp to the top. There was enough snow on the rock to make the climbing pretty exciting. About 30 metres below the summit we were into full on alpine climbing.

The summit nipple. Can you find Jenny on the slab?

Heather climbing up the snowy ledges

 Heather wisely chose to turn around just below the steep chimney that separated us from the summit. Kyle excavated holds from the sugary snow as I followed and we stemmed our way up the slippery corner to the top. It was exhilarating and a bit more full on than anticipated. 

Up the snowy chimney

Kyle and I topped out on the nipple. It was windy and freezing cold. We gazed over to the true summit about 15 m away and probably only a metre or two higher than where we stood. It required crossing a narrow ridge and we decided that was good enough. We had already had enough sketchiness and still had to get down. If it had been dry it would have been a no-brainer but the conditions were slippery and wet. Time to descend!

Looking over to the true summit from our top out

Carefully down climbing the chimney

We took our time getting back down to the ridge, then it was easy descending back the way we came. It felt nice to be out of the wind and off the steep terrain. The tit was a full value scramble! We underestimated the route a bit but I think it would be much easier in dry conditions. We celebrated with bagels at Rocky Mountain Bagel Co before driving back to Calgary. Way to go Heather, you crushed it! I hope we didn't scare you off and that you come scrambling with us again!

Canmore looking amazing in the afternoon light

Epic Kyle