Back of the Lake

Climbing at the Back of the Lake crags at Lake Louise is an interesting experience. 

First of all, the approach is brutal, its a 20 minute flat trail along the edge of Lake Louise, which is breathtakingly beautiful and it only becomes more picturesque as you climb higher.  

Really rough approach in the morning

Larch Valley/Sentinel Pass and Mt. Temple Attempt

14 km

1228 m elevation

Beautiful view of Valley of the Ten Peaks and 3/4 couloir 

Lake Louise Teahouse Challenge

16 km

400 m elevation

It was a cold, wet morning when Kyle and I left the warm cozy trailer at the Lake Louise Campground. Our climbing plans shot, we made our way to one of the most photographed lakes in Canada with a plan to visit the two teahouses in the area, Lake Agnes Teahouse and Plain of the Six Glaciers Teahouse. It is possible to hike to both teahouses in a 14.6 km circuit with new views around every corner. 

We started with the Lake Agnes Teahouse. This is a popular destination for visitors to Lake Louise because it is only 3.6 km from the Chateau Lake Louise, although it is a bit of a grind up 400 m of switchbacks and stairs. We managed to snag a table and enjoyed a hot pot of tea with tea biscuits at our first stop on our teahouse challenge. 

Fairview Mountain towers above Lake Louise with a dusting of new snow

Waterton Hikes: Carthew-Alderson Trail

Distance: 20 km one way

Elevation Gain: 650 m

The Carthew-Alderson Trail is best done starting at Cameron Lake. Since this trailhead parking lot is currently under construction and the road is closed to public vehicles, there are free shuttles being offered to take hikers up to the trailhead. You need to reserve a spot on the shuttle, preferably a few days in advance if the weather looks good. Taking the shuttle was really nice because we didn't have to go retrieve our car at the end of the day as the hike finishes right in the town of Waterton.

We showed up early so we wouldn't miss our 8 am shuttle, and were actually early enough that we got on the 7:30! There were 9 other hikers on the bus, 6 of which were doing the same hike as us. When we got dropped off at the trailhead, Alan and I were first on the trail. Within a few hundred metres we came across a small lake with a large moose wading around. We must have spent 20 minutes watching him dunk his head and eat the weeds. It was fascinating to watch this huge animal, especially when he would shake the water from his antlers.

Mr. Moose eating his breakfast

Waterton Hikes: Bertha Lake

Distance: 11 km return (+4km around lake)

Elevation Gain: 460 m

Sunday morning was grey, drizzly and cold. Alan and I went for breakfast in town then decided to be productive and do something. We chose the Bertha Lake trail because it was less committing (we left the camper at noon) and because we knew we would be missing out on any vistas the other hikes promised due to low cloud cover. The trail was wet and muddy initially, but had better drainage higher up. There was a nice lookout over Waterton Lake early in the hike, but the majority of the walk was switchbacks in the trees. The best part was the bridge at Bertha Falls.

Bertha Falls near the start of the hike

Waterton Hikes: Crypt Lake

Distance: 19 km return

Elevation Gain: 700m

For Labour Day weekend, Alan had booked Northover Ridge and we were all set to go backpacking in Kananaskis. Unfortunately as the weekend approached, the weather forecast grew more and more dismal. Chilly temperatures with sleet and snow did not sound very appealing, and we made a last minute decision to cancel the trip. This was the second Labour Day weekend in 2 years that Alan has had to pull the plug on for Northover Ridge. I guess it just wasn't meant to be. Instead, we drove to Waterton National Park in Southern Alberta where the forecast was marginally better and we would have the luxury of staying in Alan's camper. This was my first trip to Waterton and I wanted to tick off some of the classic hikes. The one I had heard the most about was Crypt Lake.

To access the Crypt Lake trail, you need to cross Waterton Lake. There is a company that provides boat rides across for $24 per person, and leaves the town of Waterton at 9 and 10 am, with return trips at 4 and 5:30. Unfortunately, this means that there are waves of hikers leaving the trailhead all at the same time and your day is limited by the return boat. Unaware of these facts and solely because we are cheap, we had borrowed an inflatable kayak from a friend with the intention of paddling across the lake under our own power.

Geared up for our crossing of Waterton Lake